Why Every Man Needs a Great White T-Shirt
The most humble item in your wardrobe is also the hardest-working. How to find the right fabric, neckline and fit — and keep it white.
Why Every Man Needs a Great White T-Shirt
If you could keep only one item of clothing, it should probably be a white T-shirt. It goes under a suit jacket and a leather jacket. It works with jeans, chinos, shorts and tailored trousers. It looks as right on a beach as it does at a relaxed dinner. And yet most men wear one that’s stretched, see-through or yellowing at the collar.
What makes a great one
Fabric
Look for 100% cotton, ideally long-staple (Pima, Supima or Egyptian), at a weight of roughly 160–220 g/m². Lighter tees drape well but can look sheer; heavier ones hold their shape and look more premium. A tiny percentage of elastane helps with recovery but shouldn’t dominate.
Neckline
- Crew neck: the classic. The collar should sit close to the base of your neck and be reinforced so it doesn’t ripple after washing.
- V-neck: only if it’s shallow. A deep V went out with 2008.
Fit
The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder. Sleeves should end mid-bicep and hug lightly without squeezing. The body should skim, not cling, and the hem should sit around the middle of your fly — long enough to stay tucked, short enough to wear untucked.
How to wear it
| Look | Pair with |
|---|---|
| Weekend classic | Dark denim, white sneakers |
| Smart-casual | Navy blazer, grey trousers, loafers |
| Layered | Open overshirt, chinos, suede boots |
| Summer | Linen shorts, espadrilles |
| Edge | Leather jacket, black jeans, Chelsea boots |
Keeping it white
- Wash whites together, at 30–40°C, with a detergent designed for whites.
- Treat deodorant marks and collar grime before washing — a little washing-up liquid works.
- Skip the tumble dryer; heat shrinks cotton and sets stains. Dry flat or on a hanger.
- Choose an aluminium-free deodorant to avoid yellow underarm stains.
- Replace them. Even the best tee has a lifespan; when the collar goes, retire it to gym duty.
Buy in multiples
Once you find the one — the right weight, the right fit — buy three. It’s the item you’ll reach for most, and rotating keeps each one looking newer for longer. Then see our guide to winter wardrobe checklist for layering it when the weather turns.